New blog with updated tips for grooming your Aussie can also be found here:
http://dunhamlakeaustralianterriers.com/aussie-talk/grooming-your-australian-terrier

It's not easy if you are a new Aussie owner trying to find a groomer that knows how to properly groom an Australian Terrier. I learned to groom by asking other aussie people, looking at many photos of properly groomed aussies and just practice.  

When we were new to the breed, there wasn't anyone near us to help us with hands-on training. We were once told, if you over strip your dogs coat its hair won't ever grow back. I never believed it, but I will tell you not only is that false, it's just the opposite.  Their coat comes back even better.   

I'm certainly not an expert groomer, but we are happy to pass along what we have learned about grooming to others.  I hope these grooming tips help you and if you need any help, please just shoot me an email or give me a call theresaagoiffon@msn.com. 

Grooming aids required are a bristle brush, double toothed comb, stripping knife, both coarse and fine, a thinning shears and nail cutter.  Always remember if cutting nails, that only a very small area is trimmed off, otherwise the quick of the nail is cut and it will bleed.  It also hurts your dog and can put him off nail cutting for life. 

General:

Your terrier need only have a bath 3-4 times a year, or if he is exceptionally dirty.  Choose a warm day, and use a non-softening shampoo.  Dry him well, then brush his coat into place.  Make sure he is out of the wind and cold when he is wet. 

He should be brushed every week.  A firm brush for the body, bristle brush for the face.

The feathery hair around his feet should be trimmed, and his tail and ears neatened get someone to hold him while you are doing this, as they will most likely wiggle.   Until you are comfortable with using scissors around their ears,  use a small dog electric shaver for their ears.  Shave around the shape of the ears and shave the entire back of the ear, leaving just a bit of hair on the back of the ear.   It’s not correct for showing, I strip the hair on the back of their ear and use a stripping stone to smooth out the back of the ear. Make these sessions, short and happy, and do a little at a time.

Eyes should be cleaned.
Check that the nails are not too long, if you do not like to trim nails your vet will be happy to do it for you.
Check that his ears are clean (don’t use q-tips) and also under his tail. 

Grooming for a Show of if you want your dog to look its best: 

Your breeder will give you a demonstration of show presentation if you require it.  This is best done by practical demonstration, though a grooming chart can help.

Top Knot: Should be brushed forward to stand upright, but not hang in their eyes.

Ears: Short and kept free of long hair.

Ruff: Brush forward and outwards.  Ruff should not be cut.

Apron: Brushed down and encouraged to grow.

Feet: Trimmed between pads, top of feet to be stripped and cat-like.

Body Coat: Brush down carefully untangle knots and knots that form on stomach and arm pit areas.

Eyes: Keep the hair short and plucked around eye area

Neck: Brush and groom so that the neck appears long and arched.  Some thinning of hair with thinning scissors may be necessary, but do not over-do.

Tail: Remove all long hairs from tail, so that the tail appears natural, straight and set on high.  Thinning scissors may be used to reduce the bulk of the tail.

Hindquarters: For cleanliness, keep hair short around the vent and in case of males, around the prepuce.

Elbows: Shorten or brush down any hair at elbow which makes your dog look out at elbows.  Sometimes it may be necessary to thin hair slightly.

Muzzle: Should be free from long hair.  The beard under the muzzle should be trimmed neatly with scissors to the shape of the muzzle, but not too severely. 

 *grooming photo used found on the internet.